Picking a tube bender
A rotary-draw bender makes clean, consistent bends without kinking the tube. It's what you want for roll cages, bumpers, handrails and frames. Here's what matters when you compare them.
Capacity: OD and wall
Benders are rated by the largest tube they can bend, as outside diameter and wall thickness (for example 2 in. OD x .120 in. wall). Chromoly and stainless need more force than mild steel, so their ratings are usually lower. Check the material you bend most.
Dies are the real cost
Most benders ship without dies. You need one die set per tube size and centerline radius (CLR), and die sets often cost several hundred dollars each. Pick the sizes you'll actually use before you budget the bender.
Manual, hydraulic or electric-hydraulic
Manual benders need no power and are fine for one-off parts. Hydraulic and electric-hydraulic benders make thick-wall and repeat bends much easier on your back, and a foot pedal frees your hands to watch the degree ring.
Bend angle and springback
Check the maximum bend angle of the bender and the dies. Some standard dies stop at 120° and you'll need 180° dies for tighter bends. All tube springs back a few degrees, so expect to over-bend slightly.
Shop presses
An H-frame press pushes bearings and bushings, straightens shafts, and does small bending work. Look at tonnage, ram stroke, the opening between uprights, and how far the table adjusts. A hand pump needs no power; an air-over-hydraulic pump is faster for repeat work.