Choosing your first metal lathe
The advice you'll hear most from machinists: buy the biggest, heaviest lathe your space, power and budget allow. A light lathe chatters and limits what you can turn. But a lathe also has to fit through your door and onto your floor, so start with the space.
Swing and between centers
A 13 x 40 lathe swings 13 in. over the bed and holds 40 in. between centers. Swing sets the largest diameter you can turn; between centers sets the longest part. A gap bed lets you swing larger short parts. Think about the parts you actually make (shafts, bushings, axle stubs, fixtures) and size up from there.
Spindle bore and mount
The spindle bore decides how big a bar you can pass through the headstock. The spindle mount (D1-4 is common on 12 to 14 in. lathes) decides which chucks fit and how easy they are to change.
Threading and feeds
A quick-change gearbox lets you set most inch threads and feeds without swapping gears. Check the range on the product page if you need metric threads too.
Tooling costs real money
The price of the lathe is only part of it. Look at what comes in the crate: chucks, faceplate, steady and follow rests, tool post. Then budget for a quick-change tool post, tool holders, carbide inserts or HSS, a live center, a drill chuck, and measuring tools. Every listing has a "What's in the crate" and "What else you'll need" box.
Power and moving it in
Many 12 to 14 in. lathes need a 230V single-phase circuit. Floor lathes ship in crates that can top 1,000 lb, so plan the unload (engine hoist, pallet jack or forklift) and the path into the shop before delivery day.
