Cutting and drilling, sorted
Once you're cutting more than a few pieces a week, a real saw and a real drill save hours and give square, repeatable results. Here's how to pick.
Band saw or cold saw
A horizontal band saw cuts solid bar, tube and structural shapes with a thin blade and little waste. It's the most versatile choice for a small shop. A mitering band saw lets you cut angles without re-clamping the stock. A cold saw uses a toothed circular blade at low speed for fast, very square, burr-light cuts on tube and bar; it's a production tool with higher blade costs. A dry-cut saw runs a carbide blade at high speed without coolant: fast, but louder, and a different machine from a cold saw.
Capacity at 90° and 45°
Saw capacity drops when you cut an angle. Every listing shows capacity for round, rectangle and flat stock at 90° and 45°, so check the angle cuts you actually make.
Drill press or mag drill
A floor drill press is for parts you can bring to the machine. Look at swing, chuck size, spindle taper (MT3 is common) and the low end of the speed range; big holes in steel need slow speeds. A magnetic drill brings the drill to the work: beams, columns and plate too big to move. It runs annular cutters, which cut a clean hole much faster than a twist drill.
What else you'll need
Spare blades sized for your material, annular cutters and pilot pins for a mag drill, taper-shank bits for drill presses with small chucks, a vise, cutting fluid, and stock supports for long pieces. Each listing spells out what's included and what isn't.
